Tony S

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About Tony S

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    I was posting here when you were in diapers.

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    Social Work Supervisor
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    Evansville, Indiana

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  1. Yes. But the problem with FedEx and UPS is they don't like collectibles. Both restrict their liability when an item's value is based on collectability. And while it seems a nuance, one needs to understand that FedEx and UPS sells you declared value insurance. You can pay for a $1000 declared value . But if you declare a value of $1000 and UPS and FedEx specifically disallow covering collectibles, you may be out of luck if a claim occurs with comic books you shipped. They are going to want to know what you paid for the items. Not what they sold for, not what a price guide or similar sales sa
  2. Mistakes are made. How mistakes are handled and corrected is the difference between good and bad service. Good service here!
  3. The OP question was specific to slabbed books and the answer is it doesn't matter if the storage box is cardboard or plastic. The encapsulated books are in two (maybe 3 with an outer plastic bag) layers of plastic. The outer shelf is pretty thick and the inner holder is archival quality plastic that is well sealed. Your cardboard box's acid content won't be a problem. As for raw comics, they make buffered collector boxes. If your books are stored in regular bags and boards you could question if acid migration from cardboard boxes is a problem and these buffered acid free boxes make sense
  4. Especially high value stuff I take to the post office in person. But by being both very nice and very insistent, I train my postal carriers (there are two, the regular and her sub) to scan packages in when handed to them. And it's what they are supposed to do. Some carriers will skip this if given a chance - they figure it will get scanned when unloaded. But I ask and stand there until they do scan it. After a few times you don't have to ask anymore. Walk back in the house and check tracking and you will see "USPS in possession of item" This (pay off what you have invested) is
  5. Moderns - since CGC opened - have always had faster TAT's. A lot faster TAT's. I don't pretend to totally understand it. I mean modern is the least expensive tier, but has always, historically had better TAT than Value or Economy, which costs more. But I'm sure there are good business reasons for it, since it's been that way since day one. I've been told moderns can be graded faster, so there is that.
  6. No one likes waiting. But at 87 days one or both of two things is going on. Either you sent in pre 1975 books at the least expensive tier. Value - which says it is 85 days. 85 BUSINESS days. Weekends and major holidays are not business days. When you say "87 Days now" that is not calendar days .It's Monday through Friday. At most five days a week. Or you might be having your books pressed? If so, that will add months to getting your books back. As I said, no one likes waiting. But CGC makes it simple. Pay less and wait longer. Or pay more and get it faster. If you are willing to pay t
  7. This is why a lot of people choose to sell books via auction houses like Comic Connect, Comic Link and Heritage. They are able to make an "all sales are final" policy stick. They locate in States with auction house friendly laws. Whether or not you paid attention, when you registered to bid you agreed to their terms, which say professionally graded books are non returnable. The second bolded area is really on CGC. Their inner holder has - from day 1 - been a problem for books with any significant cover over hang. While any inner holder design has some potential problems depending on book an
  8. No, not necessarily. Creases can damage the paper, be pressed flat but still be visible. This is especially common in white and light colored areas. White is the absence of color. So you never see "breaks color" with a crease in white areas. Sometimes creases noted in the graders notes do break color - but the graders don't describe it - only note the crease. If you are not actually looking at the book but only the graders notes, you need to wait and look at the book. Pressing can only make something flat. It cannot fix damaged paper, even if the crease doesn't break color. Damaged pape
  9. As others have said, this is a printer's crease. Period. Feeling the "bump" with your finger is what finalizes my opinion.. As for "what would it sell for?" THIS is why this book - if otherwise very high grade - should be slabbed. The advice oftentimes on the boards here is "buy the book, not the slab". But that is in fact contrarian advice. Good advice, but contrarian. Once CGC assigns a grade and encapsulates it - that is what it is for 95% of the population. It is like an umpire calling balls and strikes. Yes, sometimes they are "wrong". But it doesn't matter. The call is the call.
  10. What MRC and D2 said. All light is harmful to paper. UV wavelengths are the most harmful. But all light is damaging. You can make a color copy of the cover of your favorite books and frame the copies. While books live safely in the dark. When those copies fade - and they will - you can make another copy. If determined to display the actual books, take guidance from the Library of Congress and the Northeast Document Conservation Center. Windowless room. LED lighting at a low level. Turn the lights off except when you are in the room.
  11. Well, there is the answer I like best. And there is the real answer. The LEGAL answer When buying raw books caveat emptor applies. It is the BUYER's responsibility alone to check for the suitability and quality (in this case presence of restoration) before making the purchase. Unless the seller or selling platform (eBay for instance) gave a specific warranty, the person left "holding the bag" is the buyer. I like comicquant's answer. But the answer assumes that because the transaction took place on the boards it is among friends inclined to "do the right thing". But the legal answer
  12. Black lights give the inexperienced a false sense of security. Those who are really good at detecting restoration are using their eyes and touch That said, if you get a standard desk lamp (takes a regular screw in bulb) you can get 20 watt fluorescent UV bulbs at Home Depot or similar for not much $$. A 20 watt fluorescent is about the same brightness as a 75 watt incandescent bulb. So should be plenty bright enough
  13. The deal with pressing posters will be the size. Posters vary in size, but the most desirable and collectible size posters are usually the larger ones that were on display at the venue. Those posters are too big for the presses used by professional pressing services.
  14. What is the book? Many a time it's not the website - but the book. For instance the Last Ronin (TMNT) is not a comic book. It's too tall for the comic book slab and is graded as a magazine. And then of course you have to pay attention to the publication date. Only books published 1975 and later can be submitted as a modern. Books published before that date the "modern" tier will be grayed out and only one of the other tiers will be available. And same way with value. If you list a book published 1975 or later with a value greater than $200, it cannot be sent in under the modern tier. It n
  15. it's an endless debate where no one changes their mind. And it goes back before CCS. It goes back (at least) to Classics Inc, which was ultimately purchased by CGC and renamed CCS. I think of it like this: One finds a classic car in a barn. All original, numbers match. You can pick your favorite car. I'll go with a 1970 Olds 442. if you repaint the car and have the interior replaced - then the car is still wonderful and desirable, but not 100 % original. Stuff has been added. If you have the car detailed - washed, buffed, waxed, every little nook and crevasse cleaned . It