Randall Dowling

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Everything posted by Randall Dowling

  1. Welcome to the boards! This is a really good question. Believe it or not, unless your fairly certain you’ll get a 9.8, many books from the time period you mentioned are probably not worth getting graded. In other words, if you take the price you can sell the book for raw, add shipping costs and grading/encapsulation fees, you may very well end up with more money into the book than you can get out of it. This is particularly true for bronze, copper, and modern age books. With the possible exception of keys (#1 issues, first appearances, etc.), just about any book from that time period that would grade 9.4 or lower probably isn’t worth grading. The only reason I would get a book graded is to sell it, not for archive purposes as there are better options for less money and the most common way books get damaged is in shipping. For what it’s worth, I would take the runs you are less attached to, go through them and identify the books that look absolutely pristine (virtually no damage of any kind under close inspection), and then try a couple of those to see how they turn out once graded. Sell them and assess successes and failures, adjust accordingly. Keep the best books, sell the lower books first. If you haven’t graded books for a while, it may be a little bit of a shock as for many, grading has become increasingly strict over the last few decades. Hope this helps.
  2. I've had this and all the other bizarre shipping moves happen over the years. Always surprises me, also!
  3. I use 2 fullbacks simply because it stiffens up the assembly. I've used 3 in some cases! I typically use silver/gold with all books (moderns, bronze, etc). Even though they are oversized for some, it keeps everything nice and orderly in the box. Also, they work well for most post 1945 books. And I agree with all of Mike's suggestions about shipping. Like Johnny said, a lot of good suggestions in this thread for the new collector.
  4. I bought a pack of mylite 4s when they first came out. They’re essentially like the archives with a fold over flap. For me, I liked the rigidity at first but later did not enjoy running the gauntlet every time I took the book out or put it back in. The Mylar has a sharp edge and it just seemed easy to catch an edge on the cover and damage the book. Now, my preferred setup is a mylite 2 with 2 fullbacks. Good stiff assembly with an ease of access. I also don’t use tape but rather a post it flag to hold closed.
  5. These are pretty tough to find the right sales venue. If you have the early issues in very high grade, you may have success with Heritage Auctions. Otherwise, eBay?
  6. Agree with a lot of the points you guys made in regard to availability. I remember when the photo-journals came out, I identified 100 or so books that I was after. Some of those I passed on low grades waiting for better that I never found. And now the low grades aren’t often available either. Now, it really depends on the book. I find 5.5-6.5 is a pretty sweet copy with nice eye appeal but if I can find a special copy (pedigree, or looks like new) of a particular book, then I’ll try to lock it down.
  7. Richard Evans is one of the few dealers that’ll be very fair and give you the best advice. You may get lots of interest from others but he’s the one I would choose to work with.
  8. There are only 3. A 15, 17, and a 116. There are no 10s and around 409 9.8s. A no-reserve eBay auction is probably the worst way to sell a book like that. Very limited to the number of potential buyers that find it in a 10 day period. Fixed price (with best offer) is the way to go in my opinion.
  9. This is a really good question. I started learning how to grade comics 40 years ago and I’m still learning. Everyone has their own preferred and despised flaws on books but if you’re looking for the general consensus, I would go to one of the bigger cons and seek out the major dealers that are very well respected. Richard Evans and Bob Storms are just the first two that come to mind. They will have an inventory of books in various grades that you can look at and start getting a good baseline for the major grade points: Very Good 4.0, Fine 6.0, Very Fine 8.0, VFNM 9.0, NM 9.4. Once you get those established in your mind, you can start filling the nuances between like the difference between a 4.5 and a 5.5. There will always be tough calls, like when a book is perfect in every other way but has a 3” non-color breaking crease on the back cover (hate those!) or what role do surface characteristics play vs. the obvious structure of a book. Just takes time and lots of practice. Keep in mind the following dynamic- most people that are buying books will try to undergrade to get a better deal and a lot of people (above individuals and others excluded) will overgrade books they are selling to get the most money for them. It’s human nature but the good guys treat everyone the same way they’d like to be treated. The question I often ask myself when selling a book is this: if I got this with my assigned grade, would be pleased or disappointed. You still miss stuff sometimes but you do your best.
  10. I'm revamping this thread. We'll start with this book. Creepy 32, CGC 8.0, OWW. Nice looking copy. Note: signed by Harlan Ellison apparently! Withdrawn
  11. Hey guys, I just got done reviewing what I have left to list and it's all later run Creepys. Copies nobody wants to pay for what I paid for them! I think this is it for now. I'll do 25% off for the rest of the books in this thread. Thanks again for looking!
  12. Creepy 64, VFNM 9.0-9.2, Super tough white cover. This is probably the least transfer from stacking that I've seen on a copy of this book. This copy is very fresh. It's glossy and very pretty. I'm including a scan of the back cover just because it's super cool. I don't mind keeping this book if it doesn't sell. $45 Sold to JustJimN
  13. Creepy 62, VFNM 9.0, First full Wrightson story and a difficult book in high grade. This copy has some wear on the spine that holds it down. $40
  14. Creepy 46, VF+ 8.0-8.5, This is one of the absolute toughest books in the entire run to find in high grade. The black cover, and the tough part of the run make for a really challenging combo. This is one of the nicest copies I've seen with excellent gloss and colors with only a few minor structural issues holding it down. Good luck finding a nicer one. $80 Sold to JustJimN
  15. Creepy 38, VF 8.5, First Ken Kelly cover. Sharp glossy copy with nice freshness in hand. $45 Sold to JustJimN
  16. Creepy 18, NM 9.2-9.4, Very nice and fresh copy with excellent colors and gloss. Pretty tough in high grade. $80 Sold to JustJimN
  17. Creepy 17, VFNM 9.0-9.2, Another awesome, classic Frazetta cover. I've always felt that this was the first pass at the iconic Deathdealer. Classic cover for a very glossy and nice copy. $80 Sold to DavidtheDavid
  18. Creepy 1968 Yearbook, VF 8.0, This is such a tough book for many reasons. The black cover, the first annual, the square binding. This is a very pretty copy with excellent gloss and color but it has a very minor bundling indentation at the top of the cover. Otherwise, a very fresh looking copy. $70 Sold to JustJimN
  19. Wow. What a night. Apologies for the delay. I'm going to list the first group of Creepys tonight and I'll list the rest tomorrow night.
  20. That's it for tonight. I'll list Creepy tomorrow night including a very nice copy of the 1968 yearbook. Thanks for looking!