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About GreatEscape

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    If you have a dream about out-posting me, you better wake up and apologize.

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  1. As I began collecting, I tended to buy stuff that ‘check the boxes’ for a desired artist/character or artist/title combo. As my collection matured, so did my tastes and my ability to better define my collecting goals. It helped to prioritize and set realistic goals for each piece (ie, Byrne X-men panel page vs. Miller Wolvie splash vs Sienkiewicz Moon Knight cover) to ensure some budget discipline (“where do I get the most bang for my buck”) then try to get the best example I could find (“one and done, baby!”) and turn focus elsewhere. Naturally, I learned from past experience to gradually upgrade while “keeping the keepers“. I focused on buying fewer pieces where my personal value/nostalgia greatly exceed FMV. This means letting go some incredible pieces that others value far more than I do, and accepting this as a part of the journey. Eventually, I discover a number of pieces that I have refused to let go over time (despite many compelling offers and/or opportunities to sell) have become “untouchables” as well as significant purchases that bring me exceptional joy...these are my GRAILS. Bottom line: Don’t go searching for grails...they find you.
  2. Most of the top pieces have reserves so really depends on ‘pricing’ to determine if they sell or not. Hopefully, reserves are reasonable
  3. Frank Miller’s Wolverine #3 end page...perhaps the artist’s most detailed and defining portrait of Logan. “Not a beast...a MAN!”
  4. SOLD (Perhaps, I should have posted in comics... luckily this was bought by OA collector for reference purposes).
  5. Happy Fathers Day everyone! I've always loved so-called "Roll Call” pages as special treats for team definition, a roll call identifies a list of names, as of soldiers, students or superheroes. This roll call page from New Teen Titans #19 by George Perez features full team intros and activities unique to each hero: Robin (fixing car), Starfire (laying in bed), Raven (meditating), Wonder Girl (reading), Kid Flash (running) and Cyborg (delivering a knockout punch)! Great layouts and details that have become Perez hallmarks. Perez NTT roll call
  6. Hey Turtle, My online source lets me specify the overall mat size and the opening you can customize stuff like colors, rounded corners and "bottom weighting" (ie, a slightly larger bottom margin is believed to improve aesthetics (according to a museum curator friend). One issue is that mats are much cheaper in larger quantities, so one-off mat orders will cost 5-6x more per piece than what I pay for 25 identical mats. That's why I standardize with two sizes (regular and twice-up) and only this year added a third smaller size (9x12 opening for TMNT-size art and sketches that fits in standard 12x18 mylar. Ordering one-off mats let you perfectly customize size, cuts, fabric and colors to each piece of art, but you'll have to be comfortable with different sized mylars and/or frames. Hope this helps
  7. Over the weekend, art collector Mel H paid a visit from Massachusetts for an impromptu meet-up and sharing/talking art. Great guy, long-time collector...Mel showed me some impressive Frazetta, BWS and James St John pieces. Mel is very passionate about The Studio artists (BWS and Wrightson in particular) and "fine art" segment of our hobby....and made a deal for my BWS Poetry painting in classic pre-Raphaelite style. Before he left, I pulled out my Wrightson Frankenstein plate...he's never seen one up close and must have stared 10 minutes without blinking! Anyway, a fun Art Day amidst this crisis... Speaking of Frazetta, I did a creative work-around for my Johnny Comet strip, using an exacto knife to extend the mat opening. I think it looks great and now "fits" with other pieces...thoughts?
  8. Here are step-by-step process pics for my Barbie #63 cover-- , I needed a piece not already framed or in mylar! Besides, I think this method makes any piece look better...
  9. Sure, I'll try to post step-by-step pics tonight but here's my basic process (About 3 min end-to-end). 1. Place the matboard on flat surface and position the artwork FACE UP in the approximate center 2. Overlay the mat on top and adjust the artwork underneath so you get optimal view in mat opening. Note: I lift right side of mat and adjust the artwork so the margins line up square to mat opening with flexibility to image size, margin notes, signatures etc) 3. Place a clean weight (I use a beanbag) on top of the art and carefully lift mat (or turn 90 degrees on art) so you can access corners 4. Use adhesive corners (I use Lineco 1.25" clear) to secure artwork to mat, just like framers do. I usually start with a diagonal pair (top left and bottom right) which keeps artwork in place without my beanbag when doing the other pair. Works even if one or more corners are cut, for extreme cases just use best 2 corners. 5. Gently place mat on artwork, align corners of matboard and mat and confirm the view through mat opening is what you want. Adjust corners (step 4) if needed, you might have to adjust 2 or all four to keep things tight. Note: Peel off corners slowly to reposition, if too fast you can pull off some board material (so you'll need to use a new corner). I use white matboard so any "pull" won't be as visible compared to using a black matboard. I've changed out several pieces and after some time (say 3 months), its harder to peel off corners perfectly clean. Regardless, corners are usually not visible through the mat opening, in some cases you might see part of the corner (which is clear anyway). 6. Place the layered "sandwich" next to the mylar opening (which is 1/2 wider than the matbooard and mat. I place one corner in then carefully fit the other corner into the mylar top, Once in, I push the whole sandwich FACE-UP into the mylar to the bottom (and face-up you can avoid the mylar impacting any stats), leaving 2.5 inch top. I flatten the mylar to remove excess air then flip the whole thing over FACE DOWN and flatter again. Once in, the sandwich is fairly secure in the mylar. 7. Here's the most fun part or me. Turn FACE UP and again make sure everything looks exactly as you want, sometimes I need to pull out the sandwich slightly to adjust the mat position if it shifted relative to matboard. I put a 6-inch piece of clear packaging tape sticky-side down on the mylar edge (50% overhang) then flip over FACE DOWN. I turn the thing 180 degrees so I'm grabbing the the TOP of the mylar (and helps to have a heavy book or something against the BOTTOM end), fold over the top edge to the back and make it tight (nice soft "crunch" sound of mylar folding) then flatten the tape on the back. The folded top closes the end (for protection) and gives a nice cushy tactile feel for your fingers as you flip through your art. Turn it back over and enjoy! Hope this helps!
  10. Jade-- Great idea, I guess we can evolve this together. Plastic hanging tabs attached to the back of each piece would allow wall hanging on standard hooks and let's you switch out pieces very easily! When not used, the clear tabs stay flush on back of pieces and won't interfere with storage. Lots of clear hanging tabs available but open to other suggestions.
  11. Forgot to mention my $20 large laundry hamper (Target) holds 40 pieces = portability! I can watch TV with my kids...and enjoy some art (during commercials of course)
  12. Thanks P! Regular mat is 14x20 size (so I can fold over mylar top with tape, no open end) with opening size 10.5 x 15.75 (I like some margin notations, title/page etc). 4-Mil Mylar is 14.5 x 22.5 inches, available everywhere Twice-up mat is 18x24 with opening size 13 x 19. 4-Mil Mylar is 18.5 x 24.5 inches DPS same board and mylar, no mat. Archival foam core boards and custom mats from Lineco archival corners EGerber mylar 1422R and 1824R Total $8-10 per piece, bargain vs framing!