Turnando

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About Turnando

  • Boards Title
    Collector

Personal Information

  • Comic Collecting Interests
    Golden Age
    Silver Age
    Bronze Age
    Copper Age
    Modern Age
  • Hobbies
    Surfing, skating, jeeping, fitness, chihuahuas, comic book art/writing/history
  • Location
    US and Costa Rica

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  1. I don't expect dollar bins to be sorted. In my store I'd put the rejects in the dollar bin, bagged or unbagged, depending on what they were when they reached dollar bin status. I go through the dollar bins to relax and look for a cool cover or some decent art or writing and nothing more. That's how I'd treat them in my store: as a fun diversion that completes the store and draws in real comic lovers who will buy something besides a dollar book. The only thing I don't like in a dollar bin is flipping through junk that has been in the same bin for 2 years. I know it because I flipped through it last year and the year before and I wondered why it was taking up space then. An easy way to rotate the junk out would be to always stock the box on the left... and shuffle the books roughly from left to right. Roughly... I wouldn't spend more than 2 minutes doing it. When you add a dozen books on the left then shuffle to the right and take a dozen out of the far right box, verify they are junk, and get rid of them.
  2. I wonder what the average level of damage is for sending a book back and forth. It's not zero. I'm with the guy who says he doesn't care that much about holder imperfections. If the book is safe and the crappy holder isn't too crappy I'd let it be. Every round trip that book makes is like running a gauntlet. The book WILL eventually get killed in the back of a big rig truck piloted by a meth addict.
  3. Normally I'd say don't touch it, you haven't had any time for it to soak in that you finally reached an ultimate collecting goal of yours. After you have spent some time with your treasure you will realize you don't want to let it out of your sight. But... In this case I'm going to say it isn't really a grail. An ultimate, almost unattainable item in your collection. You said a reason to try to change the grade is to make it worth 4 figures instead of the couple hundred you spent on it. A grail is not for sale so who cares what it is worth? Think about it, is that book really your grail? Not really, so go ahead and yank it, crank it, smack it on a bing bong, and sell it for a profit.
  4. You have put so much work into looking at every book that I don't think selling it all at once is your best move. Knowing exactly what you have probably won't get you much more money than if you had spent a week or so digging for keys to figure out approximately what you have... not if you are going to sell it as one lot. I'm going to guess that you like to focus on details or you wouldn't have catalogued it like you did. It would probably be just as fun to take on the job of selling them in small lots: here, there, everywhere. It's the same kind of meticulous detail work that you already did to catalogue it. You'd make a lot more money if that's any incentive.
  5. Flip through them, read the cool ones. Then bag and board them and enjoy them for a while. Keep the ones you end up really liking, sell the others for a big profit. You have an instant collection of really cool comics.
  6. That buyer is either a scammer who is setting you up or they are an imbecile. They are nothing but trouble. I'd block them without hesitation.
  7. I don't think it would be a problem if you used a high quality automotive enamel paint and you let it cure so that it is completely off-gassed. Cure fully... which would take a long long time. I've done enough painting on my Jeep and motorcycle to know there is no way a DIY project will result in a perfect finish when you are painting smooth metal. It probably won't even look good unless you are awesome at it. The surface preparation has to be perfect and if you are using rattle cans (cans of spray paint) it is not possible to get a finish that doesn't look like a rattle can paint job. I wouldn't do it. There are lots of surplus file cabinets out there. If you want a common color, like black, you can find them. Businesses don't store much paper compared to the old days.
  8. He is delusional, possibly mentally ill, or is just putting on the pressure in his own dishonest way to scam you into negotiating a partial refund. He's a menace to society. Get the comic back and block him.
  9. I sometimes wonder the same thing... about why things like this are not frequent topics of discussion around here. I suspect that this crowd is focused on issues related directly to collecting like grading, rarity, etc. Though that is what I suspect, it still surprises me that there aren't very many threads here about reading some awesome comic. I guess I expect comic collectors to be more obsessed by the writing and art than they are. I like how Piskor and Rugg are interested in the art of making comics and not at all in the collectability of them but I don't think that resonates around here.
  10. When this happens to books that I like to read and don't consider to be collectible or otherwise historically significant I fix them by regluing the separated part of the binding with contact cement. I use a tooth pick to apply it very carefully to the binding. I got a good deal on an old out of print motorcycle maintenance manual because the binding was coming unglued and it looked horrible. It looks great now and is totally useable after I took the contact cement to it.
  11. You bought 5,000 comics to sell them and you don't know how to sell comics? Was it an impulse buy? Sounds like an interesting story, care to share it?
  12. Maybe I'm a Puritan but that feels unethical to me. The seller probably did OK because there were 3 other bidders to keep it honest but rigging an auction is dishonest and this could have hurt the seller.
  13. Another poster suggested you may be able to remove those stickers. If you go for it try Un-Du sticker and label remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZQPTS/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_Nl90EbBH2C1D3 I collect vintage SW cardbacks and have had some success with it. You drip the solvent on top of the sticker, let it soak for 5 or 10 seconds, not too long or it will evaporate. Then gently take the sticker off: slide it off with a toothpick or if you can grab a piece with tweezers without touching the cardback that is best. Lessons learned: stickers that are in good condition or reasonably located should be left alone: not worth the risk and decent stickers are cool. Do NOT rub, touch the card back, etc. Some stickers come off super easy some don't. If it is not coming off easy then let the Un-Du evaporate and give up. If you have a similar cardback that is somewhat worthless practice on that to make sure the cardback color doesn't run. If it is a typical gloss cardback it is probably safe. Maybe start shopping for a cheap cardback to practice on... to be confident that the yellow color won't smear or run. With the practice I've had I'd go for it on those 2. I suspect those stickers will be easy because someone peeled the tops of the stickers off and the solvent will go straight to the glue. Because the stickers are torn you can grab onto fibers with very sharp tweezers without touching the cardback. Pull it straight off.
  14. The file extension .jpg appears 2X in the attachment filename, that image file has been through the wringer. Maybe start fresh with a new image file.