Are "acid-free" backing boards truly acid-free? Time to pH test & find out!
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What is all of that supposed to mean, exactly?

 

I've had books in Bill Cole Mylar and backing boards for twenty to thirty years that upon submission to CGC all came back 9.8s and 9.9s with white pages.

 

And Michael has validated the performance of Bill Cole boards, they are good.

Some others, not so good.

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Outstanding research and report! ^^

 

I was actually just planning on getting new boards and bags for some of my comics that I have had for 20-30 years. At least now I know which brands to order!

 

THANKS! (worship)

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What is all of that supposed to mean, exactly?

 

I've had books in Bill Cole Mylar and backing boards for twenty to thirty years that upon submission to CGC all came back 9.8s and 9.9s with white pages.

 

It means that you're storing your books correctly :thumbsup:

I'm not being a butt head. I'm just asking. :hi:

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What is all of that supposed to mean, exactly?

 

I've had books in Bill Cole Mylar and backing boards for twenty to thirty years that upon submission to CGC all came back 9.8s and 9.9s with white pages.

 

And Michael has validated the performance of Bill Cole boards, they are good.

Some others, not so good.

I'm not picking on the Dane. (thumbs u

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Great Report, thanks!

 

I think it only makes sense to use Gerber Boards on higher value books and old books. It doesn't matter which Boards you use for Books from the last 20 years. I had many books from the earyl 90s stored in bags with the same boards for almost 20 years. In the last months, I sorted some of them out to sell at conventions. Yes, some Boards had these shapes from the back Cover of the comic on them, but the back cover of the comic looked like it was new. My conclusion: Yes, the board is doing something to the comic but I think I possibly won't ever see the big difference just with my own eyes in this life. Maybe in 50 years or more but honestly, I won't have the books anymore then. And as paper quality of comics improved over the last decade, I think it's not important which board you use for modern comic books. But as I said, that's just my conclusion for Moderns, not for books from the 70s and older (because of the paper quality).

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This report makes the pain of hauling 50 lbs worth of E Gerber fullbacks all over the USA and back to Belgium almost go away :shy:

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Funny thing is when I typed in "NERD" in Dictionary.com, this came up.

 

 

nerd

   /nɜrd/ Show Spelled[nurd] Show IPA

–noun Slang .

1. Any person hauling 50 lbs worth of E Gerber fullbacks all over the USA and back to Belgium

 

2.

an intelligent but single-minded person obsessed with a nonsocial hobby or pursuit: a computer nerd.

Use Nerd in a Sentence

See images of Nerd

Search Nerd on the Web

Also, nurd.

 

Origin:

1960–65, Americanism ; obscurely derived expressive formation

 

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And kudos to Mike for taking the time to write up such a fine report.

 

:golfclap:

 

 

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Funny thing is when I typed in "NERD" in Dictionary.com, this came up.

 

 

nerd

   /nɜrd/ Show Spelled[nurd] Show IPA

–noun Slang .

1. Any person hauling 50 lbs worth of E Gerber fullbacks all over the USA and back to Belgium

 

2.

an intelligent but single-minded person obsessed with a nonsocial hobby or pursuit: a computer nerd.

Use Nerd in a Sentence

See images of Nerd

Search Nerd on the Web

Also, nurd.

 

Origin:

1960–65, Americanism ; obscurely derived expressive formation

 

Bwaaaahahahahahaha! :roflmao:

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Will microchamber paper mitigate the acidity of various backings? Also, when you put microchamber paper inside a comic, do you put it in the centerfold, or in each inside cover and back cover?

 

It will, to some extent. But the point is, it is best to remove additional sources of acidity (ALL unbuffered backboards) to minimize the acid load on the microchamber paper and allow it to do its thing removing by-products of deterioration and pollutants. If you use Gerber or Cole boards you have the structural support of the board and the chemical support of the buffering.

 

CGC places microchamber paper inside the front cover and back cover to protect the most critical/valuable part of the comic. I also put a piece in the centerfold of my more valued books. If I had $1000 books more than a few minutes, I would probably put a couple more pieces in them.

 

Thank you. My current storage method for valuable comics is buffered acid-free backings, 2-mil mylar sleeves, and microchamber paper.

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Funny thing is when I typed in "NERD" in Dictionary.com, this came up.

 

nerd

   /nɜrd/ Show Spelled[nurd] Show IPA

–noun Slang .

1. Any person hauling 50 lbs worth of E Gerber fullbacks all over the USA and back to Belgium

 

 

You use Dictionary.com and you are calling me a nerd ? :roflmao:

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Great report. You mentioned everything that I figured.

 

Now how about someone doing a report on fading. To prove to everyone that displays there comics in the light that its destroying them.

 

We need a special spot for these kind of threads.

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Wow! :o(worship) Thank you very much: :preach: objective, unbias and reproducible!

Edited by ComicDoc

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"NERD" an intelligent but single-minded person obsessed with a nonsocial hobby or pursuit: a computer nerd.

Origin: 196065, Americanism ; obscurely derived expressive formation

 

What is the difference between a "geek" as in comic geek versus nerd?? (shrug)

Edited by ComicDoc

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This is a thread that every comic collector should read, and serves as a wonderful example of when these forums can really provide collectors with some top-notch info.

 

Nice investigation Mike. I appreciate the time and thought that went into this report as I'm sure many others do!

 

:golfclap:

 

P.S. Hope you don't mind, but I started a thread on the CBCA forums directing members to this thread--really worth reading for any of us who bag and board our books.

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And the crying shame about this thread? We don't get these choices over here in Blighty. Unless you want to pay 4x the worth of the product for shipping. Damn shame.

There is no way around the cost of shipping boards internationally. Too much mass, too much volume. The best option is to source buffered boards locally if possible.

 

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This thread is awesome and thank you for your research. Another reason I'm glad I found this place!

 

 

I was wondering though, what are the thoughts on museum quality barrier paper in lieu of MCP? Are there any other alternatives or is MCP the best a man can get (next to gillette products, that is)?

 

Thanks again

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Amazing work, Michael.

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This thread is awesome and thank you for your research. Another reason I'm glad I found this place!

 

 

I was wondering though, what are the thoughts on museum quality barrier paper in lieu of MCP? Are there any other alternatives or is MCP the best a man can get (next to gillette products, that is)?

 

Thanks again

Barrier paper is not even as good as Gerber or Cole buffered boards, because it is usually just pH neutral. Thus it doesn't even provide the acid neutralization capabilities of the buffered boards, let alone the additional capabilities of Microchamber paper.

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