• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Buying slabbed books to upgrade
0

47 posts in this topic

I'm not sure if this was covered in any previous topics in the past, but I figured I would get some information out there for those of you who purchase slabbed books to try and get an upgrade and make some extra profit. Here are some pointers.

1. Examine book closely to see defects which may press out to get an easier upgrade.

2. Examine defects of book both front and back and make sure they correspond to grade. It's very disappointing that a book may be slightly overgraded and have the resub come back lower.

3. If you open the book, make sure you don't damage it. This may seem logical, but I can't tell you how many times someone slips with a blade, especially trying to open for a signature at a con and slices the end of the book. Or when removing book from the slab/well winds up putting some finger bends or even tears the book. Also, artists may damage books with finger smudges, creases/bends, or spine dings. Window bags help a lot. Just because a book was 9.8 universal doesn't mean the book will retain the 9.8 with a yellow sig label.

4. Older slabs from early 2000s may have a better chance of upgrades as most weren't pressed at the time and bends will usually come out. But be wary about "time" damage. What I mean here is was this book sitting out on a shelf for years? Or stored in a hot attic? Had drastic temperature changes over the years with the seasons? A book may be a 9.4, but sitting out for long periods of time can fade colors, especially the red. Page quality may have dropped from the temperature. So again, examine books before you buy them. Make sure the grade seems to correspond with the quality from what you see. Grades will drop on occasion.

5. If you work on books yourself, watch the pressing. Trying to get that 9.4 up to a 9.6 can be rewarding, but popping a staple will kill any money and time you put into it. Pressing defects will also drop a grade if done improperly. Butterfly corners, rippling, staple indentations all can lead to even just a slight drop instead of increase. If you don't know what you are doing, don't work on expensive books. Learn by practicing on $1 bin books or leave it up to the professionals.

Anyway, good luck with trying to make some extra profit. Hopefully you can take my advice and use it to your advantage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/19/2018 at 11:16 PM, Philflound said:

I'm not sure if this was covered in any previous topics in the past, but I figured I would get some information out there for those of you who purchase slabbed books to try and get an upgrade and make some extra profit. Here are some pointers.

1. Examine book closely to see defects which may press out to get an easier upgrade.

2. Examine defects of book both front and back and make sure they correspond to grade. It's very disappointing that a book may be slightly overgraded and have the resub come back lower.

3. If you open the book, make sure you don't damage it. This may seem logical, but I can't tell you how many times someone slips with a blade, especially trying to open for a signature at a con and slices the end of the book. Or when removing book from the slab/well winds up putting some finger bends or even tears the book. Also, artists may damage books with finger smudges, creases/bends, or spine dings. Window bags help a lot. Just because a book was 9.8 universal doesn't mean the book will retain the 9.8 with a yellow sig label.

4. Older slabs from early 2000s may have a better chance of upgrades as most weren't pressed at the time and bends will usually come out. But be wary about "time" damage. What I mean here is was this book sitting out on a shelf for years? Or stored in a hot attic? Had drastic temperature changes over the years with the seasons? A book may be a 9.4, but sitting out for long periods of time can fade colors, especially the red. Page quality may have dropped from the temperature. So again, examine books before you buy them. Make sure the grade seems to correspond with the quality from what you see. Grades will drop on occasion.

5. If you work on books yourself, watch the pressing. Trying to get that 9.4 up to a 9.6 can be rewarding, but popping a staple will kill any money and time you put into it. Pressing defects will also drop a grade if done improperly. Butterfly corners, rippling, staple indentations all can lead to even just a slight drop instead of increase. If you don't know what you are doing, don't work on expensive books. Learn by practicing on $1 bin books or leave it up to the professionals.

Anyway, good luck with trying to make some extra profit. Hopefully you can take my advice and use it to your advantage.

Thanks for the advice.  I have a red button on my boxes that will pop up all the upgrades for this type of buyer.

By all means come back and tell me how much money you made and how you chewed me down on the buy.

:flipbait:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, blazingbob said:

Thanks for the advice.  I have a red button on my boxes that will pop up all the upgrades for this type of buyer.

By all means come back and tell me how much money you made and how you chewed me down on the buy.

Bob: Here’s a recommendation to improve your  already impressive and ever-expanding sales reach.

Why not re-submit the books in the “red-button box” to CGC yourself. Books that were re-graded (after manipulation) to a higher CGC grade could be sold at the previous, lower CGC price, ensuring a happy client.

To ensure a happy Blazing Bob, the books that return as a lower CGC grade can be sold at the higher previous CGC price, thus satisfying Bob.

Books that regrade at the same CGC grade can be sold at your previous price plus the cost of pressing, CGC shipping and re-grading. That way your potential buyer will know that there is little to no point in trying to resubmit. It saves your prized clients’ time, and gives you lots of extra stuff to do.

Of course, any comic that goes through this elaborate process will receive a special shiny label at the top corner of the CGC slab. This could stand for Completed Value Analysis (CVA).

What do you think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m confused. I’m waiting in the Miracle-Ear store while my mom gets her hearing aid adjusted for better comprehension and I’m wondering if there is some sort of CGC-thread comprehension aid for me.  

Is this thread a put on?

is the OP serious? Is OP attempting to give pointers for buying slabs that can be upgradable?

Is Bob Storm being sarcastic? If so, what is he saying (in plain language please)?

I’ve never seen a “red box” area on HGC’s website and I’ve bought several times there. 

Is this all akin  to asking a dealer if they have a hundred dollar bill they’ll sell for for fifty dollars?

thanks to all for helping me in the thread-comprehension department!

Edited by NoMan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, comicparadox said:

Of course, any comic that goes through this elaborate process will receive a special shiny label at the top corner of the CGC slab. This could stand for Completed Value Analysis (CVA).

CVA is already taken by the (completely useless) Comic Verification Authority.  (tsk)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, NoMan said:

1.Is this thread a put on?

2.Is Bob Storm being sarcastic? If so, what is he saying (in plain language please)?

3.I’ve never seen a “red box” area on HGC’s website and I’ve bought several times there.

Attempting to provide assistance for the irony-impaired. Questions answered (in order).

1. Initial poster: sadly, no.

2. What, Blazing Bob sarcastic? Well, I declare...

3. Refer to answer #2.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, jsilverjanet said:

Maybe the OP will tell us  what keys are better for CPR

I thought it was the rumpled ones? (shrug)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
0