New way to remove tape 0

[ESeffinga]

Tell me more...

 

https://news.artnet.com/art-world/1290635-1290635?utm_content=buffer87b0b&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=socialmedia

[alxjhnsn]

Interesting! Thanks for the post.

[Panelfan1]

too bad it doesn't say where a layperson cam get this unglue cocktail.

[BCarter27]

6 hours ago, ESeffinga said:

Tell me more...

 

https://news.artnet.com/art-world/1290635-1290635?utm_content=buffer87b0b&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=socialmedia

Very odd that you posted this as I was recently reading this article.

I buy a fair amount of DPS and so tape removal is just a necessary evil over here to stabilize a piece when it comes in. On modern art, I like to get it off as soon as possible. Especially, when you've seen what it can do after just a few years...

Newer Scotch tape is not awful if you go slow. But old masking tape is the WORST! And a pox on all artists who use it. It goes completely gooey. You have to heat it with a hair dryer, lift it gently, and then use a Magic Rub eraser to ball up the residue and work it off the Bristol onto a piece of copy paper which you then toss.

I haven't found a paper-safe solvent yet, but this gel suspension technique is intriguing. I tested some conservation solvents on a throwaway piece of old Bristol the other day and the problem is, even with just "painting" it lightly on with a cotton swab, it will wick into the paper! So now you've just introduced more off-gassing chemicals onto the board. NOT good.

I saw someone making the gel suspension online and it definitely crosses over into the "get a pro" territory.

The problem with comic art is that the cost of pro restoration for something as seemingly innocuous as separating a DPS is often prohibitive.

I hesitate to even post the above because now a whole host of people MUCH less careful than I are going to muck up their art. Do no harm, people. Go hire a pro!

 

Edited July 11, 2018 by BCarter27

[Catwoman_Fan]

On 7/10/2018 at 10:51 PM, BCarter27 said:

Newer Scotch tape is not awful if you go slow. But old masking tape is the WORST! And a pox on all artists who use it. It goes completely gooey. You have to heat it with a hair dryer, lift it gently, and then use a Magic Rub eraser to ball up the residue and work it off the Bristol onto a piece of copy paper which you then toss.

Is this the eraser you use?  I want to try your technique on some pages.  

https://www.amazon.com/Sanford-Prismacolor-Magic-Eraser-SAN70503/dp/B019EAWT50

[BCarter27]

1 hour ago, Catwoman_Fan said:

Is this the eraser you use?  I want to try your technique on some pages.  

https://www.amazon.com/Sanford-Prismacolor-Magic-Eraser-SAN70503/dp/B019EAWT50

That's what I have found to be the best after trying a few different ones.

Leave those little balled up rubber pieces on the goo. Don't brush them away as you are working your way down the page. They help trap the residue.

I've also used an architect's dry cleaning pad just to get some more of that rubber debris out of it. Then I work that around the goo with the Magic Rub. (I'm just going to set that one up, if anyone wants to knock it down. )

Put a couple of pieces of clean copy paper under your art as you work. Try to work in one direction, "pushing" the goo off the page. Careful not to get it onto the front side of the art.

After you get the bulk of the goo off, run your finger down the page and you will still feel a slight residue. Make another "clean" pass with the eraser over that to try to pickup as much as you can.

I don't think that you can get that last bit of residue off completely without a solvent, but it will be 90-95% clean -- MUCH better than it was with the tape on it.

FYI, I only do this with DPS tape. I leave registration targets and all other correct tape in place as that is part of the piece.

Work SLOW. Especially when removing the tape.

Also, be very careful not to buckle the Bristol when erasing. Stabilize it with your free hand and work in small sections as you move down the page.

Good luck! Take some pics of your before and after for us.

[Catwoman_Fan]

13 minutes ago, BCarter27 said:

I've also used an architect's dry cleaning pad just to get some more of that rubber debris out of it. Then I work that around the goo with the Magic Rub. (I'm just going to set that one up, if anyone wants to knock it down. )

 

 

Thanks for the details.  I have a 50 year old page with a replacement panel taped in (on the back), the front does not look very effected, but I'm afraid being in a new climate (I've only had the page a year) may cause further deterioration

Would you recommend I leave it be, or try the cleaning method?

 

 

[BCarter27]

1 minute ago, Catwoman_Fan said:

I have a 50 year old page with a replacement panel taped in (on the back), the front does not look very effected, but I'm afraid being in a new climate (I've only had the page a year) may cause further deterioration

Would you recommend I leave it be, or try the cleaning method?

It's a cut out panel?

Hmmm, being that old, you might want to let it be. Maybe test a corner to see if the adhesive is still gummy or if it has dried out completely.

If it has dried out, the eraser method won't work. A pro would probably need to use solvents on it (or I've read they even use sandpaper in some instances!)

[First Upgrade]

On 7/10/2018 at 9:51 PM, BCarter27 said:

But old masking tape is the WORST! And a pox on all artists who use it.

I wasn't present during their creation & can not say with certainty if Todd McFarlane put masking tape on any or all of his DPS pieces from the 'Spider-Man' run, however, I have seen one of those examples which did have old masking tape holding the two boards together...

Which, makes me curious as to whether or not the example being offered in the next CLink Featured Auction has the same old masking tape holding the two boards together...I get the impression that this condition detail may matter a great deal to specific original art collectors...