Resto/unresto issue
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Restoration (amateur) includes a small amount of color touch.

I figure right now it's worth about $2500 as is. "Worth" being determined as I could sell it for that. :)

Let's say they remove it and it drops to a 7.0 Universal.  One of those sold this year for $8000.

Or even if it plummets to a 5.0. One of those sold for over $4000 this year.

But here's my question.

IMHO four things can happen:

1. They can't remove it. Doubtful, but you never know.

2. They can remove it with minimal hit on appearance.

3. They can remove it, with noticeable hit on appearance. Still probably worth it.

4. They can remove it, but with a dramatic hit on appearance.

Question: if it's 3 or 4, would they contact me and outline what they think is going on? Or, if they can remove it, is it just damn the torpedos and full steam ahead?

IMG_2518[1].JPG

Edited by oldrover
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If your goal is to maximize your profit then you need to have the resto removed.

Edited by faster friends

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The fact that it is categorized as amateur means it has to be scraped off . If there is bleed through it will actually have to be cut out. Obviously, they will have to analyze it in hand. I have a book with the exact same wording on the label 'small amount of color touch on cover' that I showed directly to Matt Nelson at a con. He said there was just too many spots hit and he would not do the work. However, I have seen some nasty looking CT removal results lately so maybe they have changed their stance. 

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Along the same lines of what Bomber-Bob has said.....

Amateur color touch nearly always bleeds through. That is for all practical purposes the definition of amateur color touch. So you will end up with holes in the book with removal. 

CGC's definition of "small amount" covers way more area than most people would think.  If the color touch is amateur, the best candidates for removal are those that say "very small amount..." 

It is probably worth having CCS take a look at it. But don't get your hopes up. 

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6 hours ago, Tony S said:

Along the same lines of what Bomber-Bob has said.....

Amateur color touch nearly always bleeds through. That is for all practical purposes the definition of amateur color touch. So you will end up with holes in the book with removal. 

CGC's definition of "small amount" covers way more area than most people would think.  If the color touch is amateur, the best candidates for removal are those that say "very small amount..." 

It is probably worth having CCS take a look at it. But don't get your hopes up. 

Ergh... holes in the book?

tenor.gif

Thanks... I will keep expectations in check.

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13 hours ago, Bomber-Bob said:

However, I have seen some nasty looking CT removal results lately.

 

 

 

FantasticFour1ruined.jpg

feeling-sick-gif-13.gif

Edited by James J Johnson

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Well, I'll disagree with you on that one from my perspective... I'm looking for ROI here. And that FF1 3.5 Universal fetched a much higher price than the FF1 4.0 (R) would have.

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2 minutes ago, oldrover said:

Well, I'll disagree with you on that one from my perspective... I'm looking for ROI here. And that FF1 3.5 Universal fetched a much higher price than the FF1 4.0 (R) would have.

Yes. But your TTA 27 isn't a 4.0 now, is it? But if there's a lot of "slight" color touch, not simply contained to one or two tiny spots, it could wind up looking similar to the FF 1. Amateur color touch has to be excised. That involves scraping and removing paper where the ink bled through. You've also got a dark cover color scheme book. Everything removed will stand out in bold relief as white blotches against a dark background and where paper must be removed, the pages visible through the holes when the paper must be removed. Have I mentioned that this is a 9.0 and not a 4.0 to start with? If not, let me mention that this is a 9.0 and not a 4.0 like the FF 1 started out as.

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LOL... well, yes, you do have a point on that. ;) I was making a general point about ROI... but in this specific case, it's certainly possible if not probable that the color touch removal involved here would take the book's grade down to where it makes no sense. 

I'm assuming that CCS would let me know this ahead of time, right? That was the specific question I asked in my first post that no one has addressed... have I not mentioned that enough? If not, I'll mention it again. :)

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16 hours ago, oldrover said:

LOL... well, yes, you do have a point on that. ;) I was making a general point about ROI... but in this specific case, it's certainly possible if not probable that the color touch removal involved here would take the book's grade down to where it makes no sense. 

I'm assuming that CCS would let me know this ahead of time, right? That was the specific question I asked in my first post that no one has addressed... have I not mentioned that enough? If not, I'll mention it again. :)

I don't know for sure what the average grade of FF 1 is in the hobby; the grade you most typically see them in abundance on the open market, but with all the 2.0 to 5.0s you see offered for sale on the web every month, my beief is that the average grade of FF 1s in the marketplace is 4.0 or just slightly below. That for every 7.0 or better you see for sale, there's 20 or more offered in the 1.0 to 6.0 range. So FF 1; 3.5, 4.0; not that rare to see them offered and certainly no problem to buy one if you're readyto purchase one. But TTA 27? 9.0!!!!! That is one hellacious grade for a book that's extremely rarely seen offered over 7.5.

Restored or not, I think you're seriously underestimating what a restored 9.0 of TTA 27 can do on an open auction, restored or unrestored.

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8 hours ago, James J Johnson said:

Restored or not, I think you're seriously underestimating what a restored 9.0 of TTA 27 can do on an open auction, restored or unrestored. 

Perhaps. That notwithstanding, if the color removal would drop the grade, say, to 6.0, I'm still better off removing it.

Again, I don't know the procedure with CCS... I assume they contact me with info about the extent of the work/damage, rather than juts "Yes we'll do it", "no we won't".  But no one here seems to know.

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Just sent it in this week... it will be interesting to see what they say. However, I'm not opposed to keeping it the way it is. It's a great looking book, and pretty rare in that condition.

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I will say that I will not buy a blue label obvious color touch removed/scraped book. It’s just unsightly and not a smart thing to do.   It’s all a mental game of what people will accept or not and pay.   That’s a type of resto removal I truly despise :-)

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5 minutes ago, Comicdey said:

I will say that I will not buy a blue label obvious color touch removed/scraped book. It’s just unsightly and not a smart thing to do.   It’s all a mental game of what people will accept or not and pay.   That’s a type of resto removal I truly despise :-)

You are not alone, particularly in this forum. BUT there are those who WILL pay for it.

As I've said before, I'm selling these off, so it's really about the ROI for me.

If removal takes this to a 6.5 or 7, I gotta consider it. If it's a 4.0 or a 3.5, no.

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I get it.   It just takes me out of the market. I’m not saying you should or shouldn’t.  The market will dictate and if you don’t.  The next guy will.  Like pressing if money is on the table.

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Current owner could simply remove the CGC outer slab and replace the inner well with a fresh 4mm Mylar archival sleeve. Voilà - no more PLOD!

Edited by comicparadox
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3 minutes ago, comicparadox said:

Current owner could simply remove the CGC outer slab and replace the inner well with a fresh 4mm Mylar archival sleeve. Voilà - no more PLOD!

Probably why plod values are so low compared to unrestored.   Too much dishonesty in the old school market.   Disclosure to recover the market :-)

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