Back boards - shiny side or dull side? THE MYSTERY REVEALED! 0

[EastEnd]

Interesting thread... raises a few questions in my mind that maybe you guys can help me with -- if the light brown spots start to appear after a few years on the shiny side, is the board still ok because the effect is happening UNDERNEATH the coating that's put on the board (i.e., the comic is still insulated) or is that spotting actually happening to the coating? Also, does anyone know why that light brown spotting seems to start happening on the part of the board that ISN'T touching the comic... on my books it seems to start on the fringes and then works it's way in?

[HOTFLIPS]

This is what i was told from gerber themselves.

 

The shiny side in a regular backing board does nothing. Gerber's boards are not shiny at all and are a true acid-free board. The regular backing board is good for 3-5 years under the right conditions.

 

The coating provides a little bit of help but nothing compared to an EGerber backing board.

 

Jeff

[Ringfinger]

So, halfbacks and fullback makes no difference which side is against the comic?

[innocuous]

I recall reading that the smoother side of the Gerber boards is for the comic.

[Ringfinger]

Further confusion.

[nmtg9]

i wish i hadn't brought the subject up now.

 

at least i know which side to use now. i think...

[TheAvenger80]

Okay, how's this? If there is a shinier side of your board, put your comic there. Done.

[Ringfinger]

Holy mackerel. Now I need to look?

[General Zod]

Common sense says to put your comic up against the shiny side creating less friction between the two materials in the bag/mylar.

[Ringfinger]

True, if there is a shiny side. I am a pessimist!

[FFB]

So, halfbacks and fullback makes no difference which side is against the comic?

 

This is correct. Half Backs and Full Backs don't have a shiny side or a dull side and it makes no difference which side touches your book. They are buffered throughout the board.

 

This thread was about the normal backboards that you get from most comic stores (the ones that have a shiny side and a dull side). They are referred to as "acid free at time of manufacture," but they are not buffered with 3% calcium carbonate the way that Half Backs and Full Backs are.

[Ringfinger]

So, halfbacks and fullback makes no difference which side is against the comic?

 

This is correct. Half Backs and Full Backs don't have a shiny side or a dull side and it makes no difference which side touches your book. They are buffered throughout the board.

 

This thread was about the normal backboards that you get from most comic stores (the ones that have a shiny side and a dull side). They are referred to as "acid free at time of manufacture," but they are not buffered with 3% calcium carbonate the way that Half Backs and Full Backs are.

 

That's a big 10-4 good buddy!!

[readrideclimb]

Great test, great info! Thanks very much, I've been curious about this.

 

Cheers

[Transplant]

Thread necromancy!!

[mikenyc]

[Comic Closet]

Yes, thank you. Just bought some comics and the dull side was on some, after 30 years, it suddenly made me question if I was doing it correctly.

[Griff]

thanks I always wondered about that

[Toymachine78]

Recently bought some dollar books and they were bagged and boarded with the board in the middle of the book, instead of in the back in the bag. The book did feel more stable this way, but it leaves the spine corners exposed to dings. 

So, I left the board in the middle, but rebagged it with a board in the back too... I was very pleased with the result. Was thinking of doing this to all my bronze age books and keys. Any reason not to do this? 

[oldbsturgeon]

I would think it’s possible to get some sort of crease on the inside edge where the board is no longer wider than the comic and just a little too much pressure and bam... a vertical crease near the spine 

[thunsicker]

It’s been discussed before, no one really seems to know for sure: