Should I Reframe? 0

[BFA1971]

Hi Guys,

 

I need your help on this. I framed a piece of original art and asked them to use acid free all around. Which they aassured me they did but also included an MDF board.  They sent me this reply:

"

To answer to all the questions  

 

MDF for rigidity as the last substrate , it has no contact with the print whatsoever and is entirely normal and does not interfere with the print at all . It has a 3mm barrier board the other side of it facing the reverse of the print , which itself is mounted on a conservation board with an air gap. We would never mount a print onto MDF. However If the MDF is of concern  we can change it for an inert  foam board.

Every other material in the frame is conservation acid free, including mount boards and backboards , hinging with PH7.70 conservation tape and the Acrylic is UV filtration 99% anti reflection. 

However If the MDF worries you we can change it for an inert foam board."

My question is should I go back in and ask them to reframe? I have inclided a picture of the back of the OA so you guys can see how it is sealed.

Thank you so much for any help on this. Not sure if I am understanding the process correctly but after a number of years of the OA being stuck in the frame with MDF board it might become acid pea soup?

[ESeffinga]

That barrier board can soak in any bad juju from the MDF like a sponge over time. Additionally, reframing it with acid free foam board will be 5 times lighter.  If it was a cheap piece in a cheap frame, especially unpublished or unimportant, If leave it alone, unless the swop out is cheap. If it’s something of real value, I’d definitely do the switch, personally.
 

-e.

[BFA1971]

1 hour ago, ESeffinga said:

That barrier board can soak in any bad juju from the MDF like a sponge over time. Additionally, reframing it with acid free foam board will be 5 times lighter.  If it was a cheap piece in a cheap frame, especially unpublished or unimportant, If leave it alone, unless the swop out is cheap. If it’s something of real value, I’d definitely do the switch, personally.
 

-e.

Thank you so much. I was afraid of that it is a $1400 OA! It's crazy they went to all that bother for acid free then dump that MDF in! What gives!

[ESeffinga]

Some people use barriers and buffer boards against wood. I just figure why risk it if you are only talking another $20 or whatever for the more expensive foam board. They keep calling it prints, as that is what many framing companies see the most in their shops. It has value but not always that much value, and if damaged, replaceable. Always be sure to reiterate your artwork is original, and it’s not a bad idea to talk to your framer about what insurance they have against their work regarding damage should an accident happen to your art while in their care. Stuff can and does happen in frame shops.

I often see people shopping for the cheapest frame deals they can get, without seeming to invest any kind of care in who is handling their work and how.

15 years ago or so, back when my wife was still doing archival framing, she had someone bring her a game worn jersey by some pro football player that had been hanging in someone’s home in a box frame for a few years. They decided they wanted to re-do the piece in the frame so it hung differently and asked her if her shop could redo the work.

Normally the archival way to do jerseys is to very carefully and strategically/inconspicuously sew them onto an archival backer. 

Instead she had to call the poor guy and inform him that Michaels or whatever big box framer they used originally had hot glued his jersey to their “acid free” mat board. 

Silicone hot glue is considered archival, this is true. On non-porous objects. You could hot glue a marble sculpture to a base in a display case for instance. But what you don’t do is use hot glue on fabric. The whole thing was a disaster and they used a LOT of it. She had the guy come back, showed him the mess they made and had to give it to him and let him see if he could find a restorer to try and clean it up.

I’ve got dozens of stories like that.

FWIW, if you have a lot to frame it’s not a bad idea to buy a point gun, order the frames, backer boards and mats online as you need them, and learn to hinge and put the frames together yourself. Most any kid in high school with some sense of smarts can work in a frame shop. Many do. It was my wife’s job back when she was putting herself through college, and what she did for a few years after running frame shops. If a high school kid can do it, pretty much anyone willing to watch 30 minutes worth of short youtube clips can learn to hinge. And assemble. You can even buy pre-cut to size frames and mats online these days. 

and like we always say about art, buyer beware. Educate yourself on the materials, the lingo, the ins and outs of different techniques, etc. Know that everything labeled as acid free isn’t always, and that some have a timeline on them. 

Or save time and spend a little money. support your local frame shop, if you are lucky enough to have a good one. Get to know them. Let them get to know you. Great things can happen from that relationship.

Etc and so on.

 

 

[BFA1971]

1 hour ago, ESeffinga said:

Some people use barriers and buffer boards against wood. I just figure why risk it if you are only talking another $20 or whatever for the more expensive foam board. They keep calling it prints, as that is what many framing companies see the most in their shops. It has value but not always that much value, and if damaged, replaceable. Always be sure to reiterate your artwork is original, and it’s not a bad idea to talk to your framer about what insurance they have against their work regarding damage should an accident happen to your art while in their care. Stuff can and does happen in frame shops.

I often see people shopping for the cheapest frame deals they can get, without seeming to invest any kind of care in who is handling their work and how.

15 years ago or so, back when my wife was still doing archival framing, she had someone bring her a game worn jersey by some pro football player that had been hanging in someone’s home in a box frame for a few years. They decided they wanted to re-do the piece in the frame so it hung differently and asked her if her shop could redo the work.

Normally the archival way to do jerseys is to very carefully and strategically/inconspicuously sew them onto an archival backer. 

Instead she had to call the poor guy and inform him that Michaels or whatever big box framer they used originally had hot glued his jersey to their “acid free” mat board. 

Silicone hot glue is considered archival, this is true. On non-porous objects. You could hot glue a marble sculpture to a base in a display case for instance. But what you don’t do is use hot glue on fabric. The whole thing was a disaster and they used a LOT of it. She had the guy come back, showed him the mess they made and had to give it to him and let him see if he could find a restorer to try and clean it up.

I’ve got dozens of stories like that.

FWIW, if you have a lot to frame it’s not a bad idea to buy a point gun, order the frames, backer boards and mats online as you need them, and learn to hinge and put the frames together yourself. Most any kid in high school with some sense of smarts can work in a frame shop. Many do. It was my wife’s job back when she was putting herself through college, and what she did for a few years after running frame shops. If a high school kid can do it, pretty much anyone willing to watch 30 minutes worth of short youtube clips can learn to hinge. And assemble. You can even buy pre-cut to size frames and mats online these days. 

and like we always say about art, buyer beware. Educate yourself on the materials, the lingo, the ins and outs of different techniques, etc. Know that everything labeled as acid free isn’t always, and that some have a timeline on them. 

Or save time and spend a little money. support your local frame shop, if you are lucky enough to have a good one. Get to know them. Let them get to know you. Great things can happen from that relationship.

Etc and so on.

 

 

Thank you so mucb I appreciate your detailed answer and for the examples you gave me. This is the only piece I have which I waited a long time to get and wanted a professional to do it right. I guess I have to go back and have them remove the MDF and replace with a foam board. I will also ask how long the timeline is for the acid free materials they used as well. Thank you for pointing that out. I did a lot of reading before I picked a conservation framer but didn't think they would use MDF on the back so never menthioned it!