Nostalgic Attic Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Definitely don’t use a towel. It is not smooth and will leave marks. Regular printer paper is fine but it can stick to the cover. Something called silicon release paper seems to be very safe and is super non-stick. I think the temp for a iron would be light to medium and you would need some pressure. I hope that helps. You can buy parchment paper from the supermarket, too. (In the same aisle where you find the aluminum foil and plastic wrap.) It's essentially the same thing as the silicone release paper that conservators use. I was concerned that the parchment paper had a bit of a texture to it, so I tried a sheet of mylar and that solved any ink transfer/ adhesion problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeypost Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Definitely don’t use a towel. It is not smooth and will leave marks. Regular printer paper is fine but it can stick to the cover. Something called silicon release paper seems to be very safe and is super non-stick. I think the temp for a iron would be light to medium and you would need some pressure. I hope that helps. You can buy parchment paper from the supermarket, too. (In the same aisle where you find the aluminum foil and plastic wrap.) It's essentially the same thing as the silicone release paper that conservators use. For the life of me I cannot imagine why anyone would NOT use release paper. Regular printers paper has a texture to it and it will transfer over to the books covers. If you are pressing and have not heard of or used release paper please stop until you go buy some. Release paper is not non-stick. If a book has heavy CT it will transfer if too much heat is used, and in some cases fuse to the paper. If it is an older book with heavy oxidation of the inks, the inks (especially red inks) will transfer to the release paper. Their are cheaper substitutes but why would you want to use them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhhooks22 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Definitely don’t use a towel. It is not smooth and will leave marks. Regular printer paper is fine but it can stick to the cover. Something called silicon release paper seems to be very safe and is super non-stick. I think the temp for a iron would be light to medium and you would need some pressure. I hope that helps. You can buy parchment paper from the supermarket, too. (In the same aisle where you find the aluminum foil and plastic wrap.) It's essentially the same thing as the silicone release paper that conservators use. Their are cheaper substitutes but why would you want to use them? **Look up the word "cheapskate". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeypost Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Definitely don’t use a towel. It is not smooth and will leave marks. Regular printer paper is fine but it can stick to the cover. Something called silicon release paper seems to be very safe and is super non-stick. I think the temp for a iron would be light to medium and you would need some pressure. I hope that helps. You can buy parchment paper from the supermarket, too. (In the same aisle where you find the aluminum foil and plastic wrap.) It's essentially the same thing as the silicone release paper that conservators use. Their are cheaper substitutes but why would you want to use them? **Look up the word "cheapskate". if you are going to error, error on the side of caution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunky Brian Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 You rock on brother, I love this thread, BB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeachBum Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Definitely don’t use a towel. It is not smooth and will leave marks. Regular printer paper is fine but it can stick to the cover. Something called silicon release paper seems to be very safe and is super non-stick. I think the temp for a iron would be light to medium and you would need some pressure. I hope that helps. You can buy parchment paper from the supermarket, too. (In the same aisle where you find the aluminum foil and plastic wrap.) It's essentially the same thing as the silicone release paper that conservators use. For the life of me I cannot imagine why anyone would NOT use release paper. Regular printers paper has a texture to it and it will transfer over to the books covers. If you are pressing and have not heard of or used release paper please stop until you go buy some. Release paper is not non-stick. If a book has heavy CT it will transfer if too much heat is used, and in some cases fuse to the paper. If it is an older book with heavy oxidation of the inks, the inks (especially red inks) will transfer to the release paper. Their are cheaper substitutes but why would you want to use them? I'm fascinated about this also. I knew about the silicon release paper but how hot would one run the press/iron (why someone would use an iron?!?) and for what length of time. I would think that pressing current Moderns would be difficult since the interior pages are of different ink/paper than bronze & coppers. Wouldn't the pages stick together on these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeypost Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Definitely don’t use a towel. It is not smooth and will leave marks. Regular printer paper is fine but it can stick to the cover. Something called silicon release paper seems to be very safe and is super non-stick. I think the temp for a iron would be light to medium and you would need some pressure. I hope that helps. You can buy parchment paper from the supermarket, too. (In the same aisle where you find the aluminum foil and plastic wrap.) It's essentially the same thing as the silicone release paper that conservators use. For the life of me I cannot imagine why anyone would NOT use release paper. Regular printers paper has a texture to it and it will transfer over to the books covers. If you are pressing and have not heard of or used release paper please stop until you go buy some. Release paper is not non-stick. If a book has heavy CT it will transfer if too much heat is used, and in some cases fuse to the paper. If it is an older book with heavy oxidation of the inks, the inks (especially red inks) will transfer to the release paper. Their are cheaper substitutes but why would you want to use them? I'm fascinated about this also. I knew about the silicon release paper but how hot would one run the press/iron (why someone would use an iron?!?) and for what length of time. I would think that pressing current Moderns would be difficult since the interior pages are of different ink/paper than bronze & coppers. Wouldn't the pages stick together on these? If too much heat or pressure was used, yes you can turn a modern book with glossy pages and inks into a frisbee. A great deal of care is needed when doing certain moderns. Even when the operator takes every precaution a disaster could happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hero Restoration Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 (edited) Definitely don’t use a towel. It is not smooth and will leave marks. Regular printer paper is fine but it can stick to the cover. Something called silicon release paper seems to be very safe and is super non-stick. I think the temp for a iron would be light to medium and you would need some pressure. I hope that helps. You can buy parchment paper from the supermarket, too. (In the same aisle where you find the aluminum foil and plastic wrap.) It's essentially the same thing as the silicone release paper that conservators use. I was concerned that the parchment paper had a bit of a texture to it, so I tried a sheet of mylar and that solved any ink transfer/ adhesion problems. I never thought of trying mylar. One presser told me to use yupo paper so I did. Its interesting how it reacts in the press but its scary how easily it can damage the cover so I don't recommend it. Man FFB, I can think of a million questions I would like ask you. You seem to be an experienced paper conservator from the answers you give. Is parchment the same as wax paper? Just curious as I am happy with the silicon. Edited September 15, 2009 by MasterCPU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ze-man Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 Parchment paper is used in baking at high temps to line a sheet tray so it lends itself to acting as a buffer in a heat press but does not have the release properties of ..well release paper. Unlike wax paper, which as it's name implies is waxy or glossy because it is impregnated, or coated with wax. Heating this up in a press would not be advisable, unless of course you wanted shiny comics, I would also never stick Mylar in a press because it is plastic. It is also worth mentioning that if you are having ink transfer, or sticking problems you are using way to much heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ze-man Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 I'm fascinated about this also. I knew about the silicon release paper but how hot would one run the press/iron (why someone would use an iron?!?) and for what length of time. I just wanted to make sure everyone knows I made this thread over 3 years ago. I used an iron because it was all I had available, but it really isn't all that different then using a professional tacking iron. And while the bend was removed, the book never saw a "press" To me this would be important to those who do not like the idea of books being cooked, or made into pancakes in a dry mount press. And why I still say the term "pressed" is too broad a term that can cover a variety of vastly different processes. Simply saying a book was pressed when only one corner was worked on is a completely different beast then removing a spine roll. Perhaps one day different forms of pressing will be preferred over others, if disclosed of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hero Restoration Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Parchment paper is used in baking at high temps to line a sheet tray so it lends itself to acting as a buffer in a heat press but does not have the release properties of ..well release paper. Unlike wax paper, which as it's name implies is waxy or glossy because it is impregnated, or coated with wax. Heating this up in a press would not be advisable, unless of course you wanted shiny comics, I would also never stick Mylar in a press because it is plastic. It is also worth mentioning that if you are having ink transfer, or sticking problems you are using way to much heat. A shiny cover sounds good but I bet its not uniformly shiny or I would experiment with it. Thanks on the mylar, saves me from trying that. I kind of gave you a hard time Kenny and I am sorry, you didn't deserve it. I would prefer humidity pressing myself (I think its less harmful to the paper and yields better results) but that means detaching the cover and getting it not to cockle when drying. sigh..... Sounds easy but it sure ain't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nostalgic Attic Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Parchment paper is used in baking at high temps to line a sheet tray so it lends itself to acting as a buffer in a heat press but does not have the release properties of ..well release paper. Unlike wax paper, which as it's name implies is waxy or glossy because it is impregnated, or coated with wax. Heating this up in a press would not be advisable, unless of course you wanted shiny comics, I would also never stick Mylar in a press because it is plastic. It is also worth mentioning that if you are having ink transfer, or sticking problems you are using way to much heat. I ended up using Mylar type D because silicone release paper was not readily available and because mylar can withstand temperatures down to minus 100 degrees F without getting brittle, and will not begin to soften and melt until temperatures are in excess of 400 degrees F, it is highly durable, dimensionally stable, reusable, inert, smooth and clear. All these things seem to work in its favor, and I never experienced any ink transfer with it. Regarding temperature, I found it depends on the age and history of the book. I realized significant ink transfer down to 125 degrees F on circa 1970 books with low cover gloss prior to my use of mylar. Conversely, I took a glossy silver age book up to 180 degrees F for a significant period of time with no ink transfer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hero Restoration Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Parchment paper is used in baking at high temps to line a sheet tray so it lends itself to acting as a buffer in a heat press but does not have the release properties of ..well release paper. Unlike wax paper, which as it's name implies is waxy or glossy because it is impregnated, or coated with wax. Heating this up in a press would not be advisable, unless of course you wanted shiny comics, I would also never stick Mylar in a press because it is plastic. It is also worth mentioning that if you are having ink transfer, or sticking problems you are using way to much heat. I ended up using Mylar type D because silicone release paper was not readily available and because mylar can withstand temperatures down to minus 100 degrees F without getting brittle, and will not begin to soften and melt until temperatures are in excess of 400 degrees F, it is highly durable, dimensionally stable, reusable, inert, smooth and clear. All these things seem to work in its favor, and I never experienced any ink transfer with it. Regarding temperature, I found it depends on the age and history of the book. I realized significant ink transfer down to 125 degrees F on circa 1970 books with low cover gloss prior to my use of mylar. Conversely, I took a glossy silver age book up to 180 degrees F for a significant period of time with no ink transfer. So NA got me curious about the Mylar. I thought this would be a good chance for me to post an experiment with the mylar and try to approach my post the right way. Pressing Experiment # 101101501 My press is set at 185 degrees and comic was exposed to the temp for 5min then stays in press while it cools down. I only pressed it from the front of comic. I did not get any ink transfer but the Mylar has little bumps in it afterwards. In comparison release paper seems to wrinkle afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buttock Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 185 sounds awfully hot. Have you tried doing it with a lower temp? Looks like it's cockling a little bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeypost Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 (edited) 185 is WAY too high. How long are you leaving the books in at that temperature? Edited September 16, 2009 by joeypost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hero Restoration Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Oh, too hot eh? it actually goes up to 185 then turns off till it drops to 165. I thought that was the right range. I suppose though 185 was a good test for the mylar experiment? What do you guys think is the right temp then ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ze-man Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 I think you are not too overly hot Mike, depends on how your book is prepped and if your press was pre heated A sheet of Mylar is not much of a buffer if you ask me.(and as you saw it dimpled from the heat) How long did you let it cool down under weight because the warping present on the bottom edge reminds me of some experiments I did years ago when I wanted to see what books looked like if pressed for too long, too much heat, not cooled properly etc..etc I will see if I can find those photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeypost Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I think you are not too overly hot Mike, depends on how your book is prepped and if your press was pre heated A sheet of Mylar is not much of a buffer if you ask me.(and as you saw it dimpled from the heat) How long did you let it cool down under weight because the warping present on the bottom edge reminds me of some experiments I did years ago when I wanted to see what books looked like if pressed for too long, too much heat, not cooled properly etc..etc I will see if I can find those photos. Mike, Do you leave the books in the press to cool? Or do you take them out and allow them to cool elsewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckp1680 Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Wow, what a great thread. I have just recently started collecting again after a 15 year lay off. The CGC and pressing are all completely new to me and all I can say is that I find this fascinating! What is the most commonly used press for pressing comics, anyone have a picture or model # that might have a picture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hero Restoration Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I think you are not too overly hot Mike, depends on how your book is prepped and if your press was pre heated A sheet of Mylar is not much of a buffer if you ask me.(and as you saw it dimpled from the heat) How long did you let it cool down under weight because the warping present on the bottom edge reminds me of some experiments I did years ago when I wanted to see what books looked like if pressed for too long, too much heat, not cooled properly etc..etc I will see if I can find those photos. Mike, Do you leave the books in the press to cool? Or do you take them out and allow them to cool elsewhere? I see I forgot important details and I am sorry for the confusion. its at 195 when I put it in between mylar and 4/8" glass, press down, leave on for a few minutes then I shut off and leave in press till it cools to cold, this one sat in it overnight. What do you think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
