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Wonderbread treatment?

Started by threshold-migration,

311 posts in this topic

aardvark88

aardvark88

Posted
Posted

Crikey, I don't think they sell Wonderbread at my local supermarket. Can I substitute white, 60% whole wheat or 100% whole wheat for deep cleaning? Think Darth should report our scientific results to Overstreet. No more paying $40 - $100/hr for pro clean & press. Substitute 1 loaf & an old set of encyclopedias. 27_laughing.gif893frustrated.gif

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PovertyRow

PovertyRow

Posted
Posted

Crikey, I don't think they sell Wonderbread at my local supermarket. Can I substitute white, 60% whole wheat or 100% whole wheat for deep cleaning?

 

Not to put a serious point on it but NO! The whole wheat concept uses the outer husk which has some hardness to it. Breads like Sunbeam and Wonder are really super soft highly milled white flour breads. I really feel that the whole grain bits have the potential to scratch a cover! And no joke here so if you HAVE to try it try it on a 25 cent low grade junk book!

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Bugaboo-migration

Bugaboo-migration

Posted
Posted
I really feel that the whole grain bits have the potential to scratch a cover! And no joke here so if you HAVE to try it try it on a 25 cent low grade junk book!

 

Agreed.........and I believe that Incredible Hulk #181 has a 25 cent cover price......so try it out on one of those and let us know how it turns out. insane.gif

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garthgantu

garthgantu

Posted
Posted

"Honey, what happened to the bread for the kids' lunches?"

 

"To hell with the kids, dear - this Daredevil 4 just went from VF- to VF/NM ! Now hand me that baguette and I'll go get the oil stains outta the driveway..."

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Darthdiesel

Darthdiesel

Posted
Posted

How many slices did it take for this clean up job?

 

I was practicing on my 30 cent variant dupes and used up half the loaf when the wife caught me and I got beat since that was for my lunch all week...damn you Rick! Then again, my lack of success could be that the darn dupes are wtewr damaged and moldy and not really just scuffed..wouldn't suggest "eating the evidence" after rubbing up on 26 yr old "stuff"...

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ArAich

ArAich

Posted
Posted
How many slices did it take for this clean up job?

 

I was practicing on my 30 cent variant dupes and used up half the loaf when the wife caught me and I got beat since that was for my lunch all week...damn you Rick! Then again, my lack of success could be that the darn dupes are wtewr damaged and moldy and not really just scuffed..wouldn't suggest "eating the evidence" after rubbing up on 26 yr old "stuff"...

 

I think you have to use low calorie bread on variants...(thought everybody knew that).... insane.gif Sorry about your lunch....I'll pick up the tab if were ever to have a chance meeting...I'll even buy you a bagel that you can use on your USM #1 so you can make it even whiter than white.... makepoint.gif

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hammer-migration

hammer-migration

Posted
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Nice, I was trying the WonderBread treatment on the back cover of a mid-grade Spiderman 68 with alot of ink-transference/dirt on the surface. I got a little too close to the edge and pulled the paper up, producing a crease, when the corner was caught by a "pore" in the piece of bread. The finished product wasn't too bad. Alot of the dirt was removed but what WAS transference ink, in the "wet stacking" WASN'T at all affected and remained on the back cover. Possibly, I didn't rub hard enough, but I did manage to snag the edge of the margins a few times and if I WAS rubbing harder, would have caused some serious damage. Go EASY, if you try this WB treatment on a book with any real value.

I HAVE read an article on restoration (can't recall where) that indicated there was a means a restorer employed utilizing some time of porous pouch (resin bag perhaps) filled with eraser shards. Dry cleaning the covers had something to do with lightly abrasing the cover with this pouch. Anyone ever see that mention in an article?

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PovertyRow

PovertyRow

Posted
Posted

Alot of the dirt was removed but what WAS transference ink, in the "wet stacking" WASN'T at all affected and remained on the back cover.

 

The single most effective way I know to remove ink transfer stain is VMP Naptha. Requires removing the cover and soaking it for about 20-30 minutes. The usual ink transfer stains will simply vanish. No impact to inks. No impact to size of the covers. No impact to anything. Evaporates 100%.

 

When I move to a larger place I will re-establish a restoration area. Would like to try out Naptha on a still bound book and see the impact on the inner pages- if they show any signs. Don't know WHY I didn't try that a few years ago when I dedicated a room to it! Sheesh!

 

Maybe others with Naptha experience can answer?

 

AND REMEMBER - NAPTHA IS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE AND FUMES NOT OUR PAL. USE GOOD VENTILATION (IF YOU HAVE AN OUTDOOR AREA USE IT) AND NO SPARKS, FLAMES, ELECTRICAL DEVIES ETC. IN THE AREA.

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blowout

blowout

Posted
Posted

The single most effective way I know to remove ink transfer stain is VMP Naptha. Requires removing the cover and soaking it for about 20-30 minutes

 

How do you do this with a Squarebound book?

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PovertyRow

PovertyRow

Posted
Posted

How do you do this with a Squarebound book?

 

At this point am not sure. Have yet to figure out how to safely remove a squarebound cover. Had many discussions about this back in the 80's. As I have never tried just immersing a cover in Napthat and letting the naptha "creep" to the inner pages, I have no idea what things would look like, and how the glue binding the cover would react and possibly spread. I used to ponder freezing to brittle the glue but still how to get the spine removed with no paper damage? Used to fantasize about super-precise fine beam lasers - all manner of things.

 

By this time I have to assume a truly successful squarebound cover removal has been discovered - unfortunately not by me. frown.gif

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OldGuy

OldGuy

Posted
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I HAVE read an article on restoration (can't recall where) that indicated there was a means a restorer employed utilizing some time of porous pouch (resin bag perhaps) filled with eraser shards. Dry cleaning the covers had something to do with lightly abrasing the cover with this pouch. Anyone ever see that mention in an article?

 

http://bcemylar.com/misc.html

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Arty

Arty

Posted
Posted

I believe there no way to remove "wet stacking" transference ink? (Ink that hasn't dried completely, and has transterred from front covers to white areas of back covers while stacked?)

 

Pov...I quess that you meant a different thing with "ink transfer stain" than Hammer? ink transfer stain=Oils transferred to covers from interior pages?

 

Haven't tried it yet, but VMP Naptha (have used similar stuff for years) removes these completely?

Does it remove translucency caused by those inks?

 

Could you clarify this, I'm a bit confused about these terms.

 

 

 

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PovertyRow

PovertyRow

Posted
Posted

I quess that you meant a different thing with "ink transfer stain" than Hammer? ink transfer stain=Oils transferred to covers from interior pages?

 

Exactly - that even greenish coating on the inside covers usually slightly smaller in dimension that the inner pages. It is typically referred to as "ink transfer stain". I have only seen two cases where it did not remove it completely. A couple of Atlas blac-cover precode horror books where the stain was almost imposssibly dark. Never seen anything like it since. I tried soaking 2 -3 times longer and still all of it would not come away. Turned a light green but still there.

 

Now remember it has been some years since I performed these processes, but to the best of my memory the transparency was either slightly affected or there was no real issue with it in the first place. Guess I didn't do a lot of white covers where the transparency would really show.

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murph0

murph0

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Posted
The single most effective way I know to remove ink transfer stain is VMP Naptha. Requires removing the cover and soaking it for about 20-30 minutes

 

How do you do this with a Squarebound book?

 

About the only way to get it off is by using a hair dryer to heat the glue. But it makes the cover far more wavy than normal and can create some big lumps.

 

Brian

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