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Buying slabbed books to upgrade
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47 posts in this topic

Oh, if we're making this the Tip Thread, I've got a surefire one; the next time you go to a con, ask to see a slab from a dealer you wouldn't mind never doing business with again.  while holding the slab in one hand, reach down into your pants and rub your nethers with as much vigor as you are able wit the other.  Then quickly -  and speed is the key here - remove your hand and smear it all over the slab.  Hairs are a bonus!

PROTIP: avoid showering for at least three or four days prior to attending the con. You will still need to look presentable so as to not alarm the dealer in their native habitat, so deodorant and clean clothes are a must.

Once said smearing has been completed, you're in all likelihood going to have the upper hand in any negotiations, as most dealers do not bring disinfectant to conventions.  However, this will only work once, so make sure the slab you get is a good one,

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On 2018-01-19 at 11:16 PM, Philflound said:

I'm not sure if this was covered in any previous topics in the past, but I figured I would get some information out there for those of you who purchase slabbed books to try and get an upgrade and make some extra profit. Here are some pointers.

1. Examine book closely to see defects which may press out to get an easier upgrade.

2. Examine defects of book both front and back and make sure they correspond to grade. It's very disappointing that a book may be slightly overgraded and have the resub come back lower.

3. If you open the book, make sure you don't damage it. This may seem logical, but I can't tell you how many times someone slips with a blade, especially trying to open for a signature at a con and slices the end of the book. Or when removing book from the slab/well winds up putting some finger bends or even tears the book. Also, artists may damage books with finger smudges, creases/bends, or spine dings. Window bags help a lot. Just because a book was 9.8 universal doesn't mean the book will retain the 9.8 with a yellow sig label.

4. Older slabs from early 2000s may have a better chance of upgrades as most weren't pressed at the time and bends will usually come out. But be wary about "time" damage. What I mean here is was this book sitting out on a shelf for years? Or stored in a hot attic? Had drastic temperature changes over the years with the seasons? A book may be a 9.4, but sitting out for long periods of time can fade colors, especially the red. Page quality may have dropped from the temperature. So again, examine books before you buy them. Make sure the grade seems to correspond with the quality from what you see. Grades will drop on occasion.

5. If you work on books yourself, watch the pressing. Trying to get that 9.4 up to a 9.6 can be rewarding, but popping a staple will kill any money and time you put into it. Pressing defects will also drop a grade if done improperly. Butterfly corners, rippling, staple indentations all can lead to even just a slight drop instead of increase. If you don't know what you are doing, don't work on expensive books. Learn by practicing on $1 bin books or leave it up to the professionals.

Anyway, good luck with trying to make some extra profit. Hopefully you can take my advice and use it to your advantage.

 

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So good of you to start a thread about how to do this stuff since there are no others like it on this entire board. No one seems willing to share their valuable insight and tactics in how to squeeze out every last penny in this hobby. I mean-- it takes real guts - chutzpah even - to come in here and tell all these novices how to do this stuff.

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Now let's eat!

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On 1/21/2018 at 11:17 AM, blazingbob said:

By all means come back and tell me how much money you made and how you chewed me down on the buy.

Let's do this.  Can I:

1. Pay you for the books;

2. You CPR them; and

3. When they come back, I will keep the ones that upgraded and you refund me my money for the ones that didn't?

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7 minutes ago, Transplant said:

Let's do this.  Can I:

1. Pay you for the books;

2. You CPR them; and

3. When they come back, I will keep the ones that upgraded and you refund me my money for the ones that didn't?

Of course,  with interest.

 

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In all fairness I don't know a lot about this.  However, I do know that in 1972, a crack commando unit was sent to prison by a military court for a crime they didn't commit. These men promptly escaped from a maximum security stockade to the Los Angeles underground. Today, still wanted by the government they survive as soldiers of fortune. If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them....maybe you can hire The A-Team.

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On 1/19/2018 at 8:16 PM, Philflound said:

I'm not sure if this was covered in any previous topics in the past, but I figured I would get some information out there for those of you who purchase slabbed books to try and get an upgrade and make some extra profit. Here are some pointers.

1. Examine book closely to see defects which may press out to get an easier upgrade.

2. Examine defects of book both front and back and make sure they correspond to grade. It's very disappointing that a book may be slightly overgraded and have the resub come back lower.

3. If you open the book, make sure you don't damage it. This may seem logical, but I can't tell you how many times someone slips with a blade, especially trying to open for a signature at a con and slices the end of the book. Or when removing book from the slab/well winds up putting some finger bends or even tears the book. Also, artists may damage books with finger smudges, creases/bends, or spine dings. Window bags help a lot. Just because a book was 9.8 universal doesn't mean the book will retain the 9.8 with a yellow sig label.

4. Older slabs from early 2000s may have a better chance of upgrades as most weren't pressed at the time and bends will usually come out. But be wary about "time" damage. What I mean here is was this book sitting out on a shelf for years? Or stored in a hot attic? Had drastic temperature changes over the years with the seasons? A book may be a 9.4, but sitting out for long periods of time can fade colors, especially the red. Page quality may have dropped from the temperature. So again, examine books before you buy them. Make sure the grade seems to correspond with the quality from what you see. Grades will drop on occasion.

5. If you work on books yourself, watch the pressing. Trying to get that 9.4 up to a 9.6 can be rewarding, but popping a staple will kill any money and time you put into it. Pressing defects will also drop a grade if done improperly. Butterfly corners, rippling, staple indentations all can lead to even just a slight drop instead of increase. If you don't know what you are doing, don't work on expensive books. Learn by practicing on $1 bin books or leave it up to the professionals.

Anyway, good luck with trying to make some extra profit. Hopefully you can take my advice and use it to your advantage.

There is no shortage of people on these boards doing what you describe. You’re preaching to the choir. They just prefer to do it quietly. CPR is nothing new.

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13 hours ago, Buzzetta said:

In all fairness I don't know a lot about this.  However, I do know that in 1972, a crack commando unit was sent to prison by a military court for a crime they didn't commit. These men promptly escaped from a maximum security stockade to the Los Angeles underground. Today, still wanted by the government they survive as soldiers of fortune. If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them....maybe you can hire The A-Team.

Is this who I hire to do my CT removal?  Did their crime have to do with comic restoration? Do they work for CGC?  How do you get in touch with this "A-Team" you speak of?

Also, here's my own anecdotal advice completely worthless to anyone but me 6 months ago but I bought a really nice looking SA ASM slabbed from Harley who cut me a great deal on it (Thanks Harley! :)) and I still love it.  I was ready to go home with it but had to stop by the CGC booth for upgrade advice for my ASM 129 from one of the head graders.  While having it pre-screened for a press and resubmit, the guy asked if I wanted the other ASM slab reviewed.  I said why not.  After review the guy said it would be a great upgrade candidate as well.  I really wasn't planning on it but agreed to since I was already there and didn't think it could hurt.  Oh it did hurt.  Went from a 9.4 White to 9.2 OW/W pages.  Thankfully my ASM 129 did upgrade and more than made up for it but I really wished I had kept the downgraded ASM in it's original old label slab :(. It's still a great looking copy and I love it so maybe I'll just crack it out and upgrade my raw copy.  Lesson is: Never...um I mean...Always...no, no, no -um....

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6 minutes ago, justafan said:

Is this who I hire to do my CT removal?  Did their crime have to do with comic restoration? Do they work for CGC?  How do you get in touch with this "A-Team" you speak of?

Also, here's my own anecdotal advice completely worthless to anyone but me 6 months ago but I bought a really nice looking SA ASM slabbed from Harley who cut me a great deal on it (Thanks Harley! :)) and I still love it.  I was ready to go home with it but had to stop by the CGC booth for upgrade advice for my ASM 129 from one of the head graders.  While having it pre-screened for a press and resubmit, the guy asked if I wanted the other ASM slab reviewed.  I said why not.  After review the guy said it would be a great upgrade candidate as well.  I really wasn't planning on it but agreed to since I was already there and didn't think it could hurt.  Oh it did hurt.  Went from a 9.4 White to 9.2 OW/W pages.  Thankfully my ASM 129 did upgrade and more than made up for it but I really wished I had kept the downgraded ASM in it's original old label slab :(. It's still a great looking copy and I love it so maybe I'll just crack it out and upgrade my raw copy.  Lesson is: Never...um I mean...Always...no, no, no -um....

Did they just look at them through the slabs?  :eyeroll:

I can tell you from cracking out hundreds of slabs, you cannot see 60% or more of the defects through the outer well.

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